Brigham Young, what were you thinking? Salt Lake City is founded on the banks of the largest visible body of water for hundreds of miles, which just so happens to be five times saltier than the ocean. Yes, Angela did actually taste it. Also, temps over a hundred every day for 16 straight days, starting with lows of 80 at 4 AM, climbing into the 100’s by 11, and staying there until 11 at night to ‘cool’ back down to the 80’s. Needless to say, the tin can we live in had a very difficult time managing the heat and we lived in mostly darkness to try and stave off the sun. HOWEVER, we had a great time.
Was it the Lord? Was it an angel? Was it the dehydration and lack of food that made them think this was a good place to land? IDK. In any case, the water in Salt Lake was awesome! (And yes, I did taste it). What looked like foam on the banks was actually salt that just kept piling higher and higher. In some places it looked like snow piled up next to the lake. Plus, the water was pink. PINK, I tell you. The pictures don’t do it justice. Needless to say, glad we did it, butdon’t necessarily want to go back any time soon. So happy to see family though.
Salt Lake City, or SLC, pretty much embodies the American spirit and what used to be the melting pot approach to society. In just over 100 years, the original Mormon settlers managed to transform a piece of desert on the edge of a salt lake into a thriving metropolis of 200,000 people. To be sure, most of the power and political positions in the city are still held by Mormons, but unlike the rest of state which is quite homogenous and conservative, SLC is far more liberal and dare I say metropolitan.
From the hipster groove of Seattle, to the walkability of Boston, to the cultural scene of New York, SLC has spent much of its two centuries assimilating all that is good about America’s largest cities and developing it into a culture that is uniquely Salt Lake. Add to that (past two weeks of 100+ discounted) some great weather, mountains within shouting distance, and roads laid out in a perfect grid and SLC pretty much has everything you need, and nothing you don’t.
Our visit was clearly during the summer, but it would be impossible to talk about the city without at least mentioning its four world class ski resorts Alta, Brighton, Snowbird, Solitude. Within an hours drive, there are an additional nine resorts in nearby Provo Canyon, Park City, and Ogden. The weather here makes for some of the best powder in the world and the locals are quite proud of it. On a previous visit, as I was stepping into my skis first thing in the morning, I watched a dude walk up to the edge of the lift from the parking lot, reach down, grab a handful of glorious powder and declare ‘ Nope, too wet’, and get back into his car to leave. Meanwhile, as a practitioner of the ice and slush riddled slopes of greater New England, I had never seen anything as soft and fluffy, and that includes a stint in the French Alps.
Back to our summer visit, and do not despair, there is still much to see and do, even if you can’t ski. Any trip to SLC would be incomplete without a visit to Temple square, and with all of those mountains, there is clearly some great hiking. Add in some culture and a few day trips, and SLC is easily a several day visit.
Some Suggested Itineraries
If you have only one day
The obvious choice here is to visit Temple Square and the surrounding area. We took the tour, and honestly, it’s a bit like going to the Vatican, in that it is the pinnacle of what the Mormon church hopes to convey. And I must say, they do a great job of it. The buildings are beautiful and the Mormons there to assist you (mostly 20 something year old women on Mission) are painfully bubbly. The tour lasts about 45 minutes, but you are welcome to stroll the grounds for as long as you like. And the 20 somethings will absolutely stay for as long as it takes to answer every question you might have.
Unfortunately, the Temple itself is undergoing some reconstruction, but as non-Mormons, we wouldn’t have been allowed in anyway. Alas, we had to settle for the Salt Lake Tabernacle, built in the the mid 1800’s of native scrub pine but painted to look like oak and marble. I challenge anyone to know it wasn’t the real thing unless you had been told and then took a REALLY good look. And it’s still standing 170 years later, impressive. What is also remarkable about the tabernacle is the acoustics. Brigham Young wanted the congregation to be able to hear a pin drop from a long distance. The unique design of the dome and lack of columns along sight lines to the podium actually allows for the sound of a pin dropping 170 feet away. Again, using technology and materials available in the late 1800’s desert.
Not only is it still gorgeous at 170 years old, but just think about the heat and lack of water they dealt with while they were building it. Amazing. I also learned a bit about the Mormons I didn’t know, like how they are all about their ancestors which is why they offer a free ancestry website to all (familysearch.org). The grounds are as beautiful as the facilities. The people ARE wicked bubbly.
As an aside, I just might want to return in 2024 for the Open House of the Renovated Temple. It will be open to the public, which is huge, because the Temple is ordinarily only open to practitioners of the faith. And they know if you aren’t, so no sneaking, and also a little respect for their rules.
Did you Know?
Temple Square is a center of history and worship for members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Located in downtown Salt Lake City, Utah, Temple Square encompasses 5 city blocks of historic sites, engaging exhibits, and wholesome activities centered on the Church’s mission to worship Jesus Christ and serve God’s children. Come enjoy beautiful gardens, majestic architecture, and the peace and reverence of this iconic space of worship.
Although you are not allowed to enter the Temple, the Conference Center is open to all visitors. It is a massive, 1.4 million square foot facility providing gorgeous views of the Temple from indoors and out, a huge rooftop garden terrace, and a 21,000 seat auditorium. The Conference Center is also home to the world-famous Tabernacle Choir and Orchestra. The Choir hosts events throughout the year, none more well known than the annual PBS holiday special Christmas with The Tabernacle Choir. There Conference Center also houses of wealth of art central to the Mormon faith a replica of sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen’s masterpiece, the Christus.
The Family History Library is a must stop, and where we learned about the Mormon focus on family and genealogy. It is very family friendly and a lot of fun for free. Hugely interactive, touchscreens throughout allow you to learn about your name, family history, famous people sharing your name, and a wealth of other entertaining information (without being too specific about your personal details). If you are serious about your lineage are want more than some interesting entertainment, the facility also has a huge collection of resources and the support from the staff is second to none. In fact, they will give the bubbly twenty somethings a run for their money.
Other buildings of interest at Temple Square include the Salt Lake Assembly Hall and Historic house museums The Lion House, The Beehive House, and the Deuel Cabin. These facilities were closed during our visit for renovation, but the Lion House was Brigham Young’s home and The Beehive House housed three Presidents of the Church.
If you have two to three days
If you have some extra time in SLC, I highly recommend visiting either Red Butte Gardens of Thanksgiving Point (although technically in Lehi). Both of these gardens offer an easy half day stroll through beautifully rendered combinations of wild and sculptured gardens. In addition, both host outdoor concerts as well as a range of special events throughout the season. For your alternate day, we suggest a bike ride on the Legacy Parkway Trail/ Jordan River Parkway Trail if you’re flatlanders like us, or take the more challenging Emigration Canyon Route with 1,000 feet in elevation gain. Or if you are a novice kayaker or birdwatcher, Bountiful Lake is the perfect spot to drop in and enjoy a quiet afternoon.
Red Butte Gardens
Did You Know? Today, Red Butte Garden has 21 acres of display gardens and over five miles of hiking trails. The Garden, which is community-funded, has grown into one of the nation’s pre-eminent botanic gardens with 200,000 annual visitors, over 10,000 members, and over 300 active volunteers. The Garden is renowned for its award-winning gardens and beautiful floral displays, including its springtime display of over 524,000 blooming bulbs, outdoor concert series, and award-winning educational programs. It has become a multi-purpose facility for people seeking horticultural knowledge, exercise, recreation, family-based activities, or a stunning setting for weddings and other special events. https://redbuttegarden.org/about-us/
If you’re the horticulture type, this is a great spot. There are eight themed designed by type (herb, scent, roses, etc.) and a floral walk. There are also several miles of just well tended natural landscape. They also have a really interesting section designed for water conservation. The plantings are on a hillside and identified by water requirement zones that gives options and alternatives for the plants, shrubs, trees based upon how much water they need. Much of this is likely derived from the original botanical studies of Dr. Cottam, Chairman of the Botany Department at the University of Utah in 1930. Dr. Cottam spent thirty years studying the adaptability of plants to the region. It was interesting to see the layers of water consumption and how it is possible to achieve a garden with a very similar look but requires exponentially less water depending on the varietal you choose.
Overall, the gardens are just a great place to spend a day meandering around and learning the names of all those plants you see every day. Unfortunately for me, I have discovered that I have absolutely no room to retain any of it. While I am genuinely intrigued to know the names of the plants, I’m pretty much Ten Second Tom, and have forgotten it literally as soon as we step away. At least it’s a good walk. Be sure to check out the event calendar before you go, with major musical acts, coupled with movie nights, and art and photography exhibits, there is sure to be something to attract your attention.
If you love birds and bees and flowers and trees, this is the spot for you. Just another glorious day in paradise. I couldn’t believe how many different types of pollinators there were here. This is the first time I have ever seen a bee with “honey pots” on its legs (bottom right). Wicked Cool! Most informative in the conservation section and since 60% of SLC’s water goes to irrigation, more people should come visit here.I agree that Shawn is ‘Ten Second Tom’ when it comes to anything nature related, but he’s the expert on music. We all have our gifts.
Thanksgiving Point
Somewhat of a missed opportunity here as we came specifically for the outdoor concert and fireworks, but it is easy to see spending a full day here to admire the gardens. Unlike Red Butte, these gardens are meticulously manicured and designed for visual presentation. Despite missing the full gardens, the walk through to Thanksgiving Point did provide a nice glimpse of what they had to offer, but we definitely missed the full experience. We saw about five of the 50 acres of stately gardens, grand lawns, and the largest manmade waterfall in America that defines Ashton Gardens.
There is also a Butterfly Biosphere where over a thousand live butterflies from around the world amaze and delight the masses. Thanksgiving Point is not limited to bugs and flowers, it also boasts two museums. The Mountain America Museum of Ancient Life holds 60 complete dinosaur skeletons, making this museum one of the world’s largest displays of mounted dinosaurs. The Museum of Natural Curiosity is a children’s museum with over 400 hands on exhibits. Thanksgiving Point’s Waterfall Amphitheater is a great music venue, with three huge manmade waterfalls coming together to form the backdrop for the bandstand. And because it is man-made, the water stops during the concert. It is a grassy bowl much in the style of Tanglewood or Wolf Trap, although only low beach chairs are permitted here. The concert couldn’t have been better, perfect weather, no bugs, and they played just over an hour followed by fireworks. Highly recommend a return here if we get the chance.
What we saw of the gardens on the way to the concert were beautiful and I could definitely see spending an entire day here. But then, I do love a garden. I can just imagine what it must look like at Christmas. They also have a wicked cool exhibit currently running through them – Huge LEGO flora and fauna that are super realistic. Since the concert was an orchestra, I definitely missed the kids and wish they could have joined us.The fireworks afterwards were spectacular. So glad 2020 and quarantines are over!
Cycling
Jordan River Parkway
This is a paved trail system running for almost 50 miles running along a nature preserve that abuts the Great Salt Lake. Although the portion we rode on largely follows between I-80 and neighborhoods, the path is meticulously maintained and clearly high use for the residents. A 14 mile jaunt for a butt not used to the bike seat was about all we could handle, but we managed to get out twice and rode to Bountiful Lake both times. Not terribly scenic, but a nice ride none-the-less. Better bikes might have made for a longer ride, and a substantially less sore butt, but the free bike loaners from the RV park did the job for what we were looking for.
Shawn forgot to mention that one of the bike trails ran right along the backside of the campground which made it perfect to do when we were feeling a little lazy about a hike. While the bike trail was not terribly scenic, the lake was and made for a great destination point. The campground also had bicycle surreys for four. We had such fun riding out though Shawn complained that he was doing all the work. He probably was. The picture below doesn’t show Shawn, his mom and I, but Aunt Jean and Dennis. He definitely wouldn’t have had to work as hard with them. Ha!On our second bike ride out to the lake,there was a gentleman coming off the lake in the canoe below. He made it from scratch and it was absolutely gorgeous. He even made the wooden paddle to match. No, he was not a professional boat maker. He had only made this one. The ingenuity and artistic talent of people is just amazing!
Emigration Canyon
For the record, this is not a trail we personally experienced, but based on our drive-by on the way to a hiking trail, it is extremely popular and felt it was worth the mention. The road has bike lanes on both sides wide enough for at least two if not three bikes to ride side by side and the climb, while long, is fairly gradual until the top. It follows the path of the Donner party through this range well before their unfortunate encounter with mother nature in Nevada/California. I can appreciate the sense of accomplishment the bikers must feel on reaching the top, and the sense of elation the Donner party must have felt only to be followed by the crushing reality of the Sierra Nevada range. The bike trail is a 16 mile circuit with 1000 feet of elevation gain culminating at the top of Little Mountain. More experienced or hardy bikers can continue over Little Mountain to summit Big Mountain, adding an additional 1,600 feet of elevation gain over 7 miles (one-way).
Kayaking
Bountiful Lake – This is small little lake just a short drive from the city along the Legacy Parkway (Utah 67) just north of the Legacy Nature Preserve. It’s only a little over a half mile end to end with two small islands in the middle. Fortunately, the day we decided to kayak, the weather was extremely overcast and made being out on the water bearable. Less bird activity than we had hoped, but it was a nice paddle with absolutely no one else on the water until we were coming in.
While there was no one else on the water, there was an airplane flying low overhead. Where was Snoopy to save me from the Red Baron? (Even though the plane was yellow). Such fun! While we were hoping to see more birds that day we did see lots of eared grebes, a family of Forster’s terns and one lonely least sandpiper. Of course there were lots of ducks and gulls. Neatest thing we saw was a family of boat tailed grackles with momma flying in with breakfast and a muskrat swimming around.
If you have more time
If you have more time to spend in SLC, you should be acclimated and definitely ready to get your hike on. If hiking isn’t your thing, a 45 minute drive to Timpanagos Cave National Historic Site or an hour and a half drive to Golden Spike National Historic Monument both make for excellent full day excursions.
Hiking
We are in no way experts on the hiking trails in SLC. Any local will likely have a list of ten (or twenty) of their favorite hike in and around the city, and a quick Google search will confirm the same. That said, we chose three trails that we thought would highlight the terrain and views that would capture the Salt Lake experience. Little Mountain is rugged, through some meadow and with the potential for some birdwatching, Antelope Island is wide open with views of Salt Lake, and Bell Canyon routinely shows up as a locals favorite with a great waterfall at the end. Not all-inclusive to be sure, but I think we captured the essence.
Emigration Canyon – Little Mountain Summit Trail
The drive up to the canyon was probably the highlight of this hike for me. The hills and mountains are still pretty stark in the area with very little vegetation, reminiscent of Nevada, or any high desert area.. The drive to the hike is a curving winding climb up the mountain offering some pretty impressive views of the canyon and the adjacent reservoir. The trail is fairly wide and flat and generally follows the ridgeline toward the Wasatch peak. It is helpful to have a good map or trail app as the turn off to the peak is obscured and you may find yourself continuing along Lookout Peak Trail, adding several miles to your trek. Sparse foliage, and nothing taller than 12 or 15 feet, but we did see a mule dear and her fawn. The last quarter mile (as with so many trails) was a distinctively sharper climb, but the payoff did provide some absolutely fantastic views of the entire valley, the reservoir, and the surrounding range.
The drive up the canyon was not the highlight for me. My highlight was seeing the deer. First of all, I should have known something was up when she was making weird noises at us. Noises I have not ever heard come from a deer. Then, when she decided to move along, it was like the cartoon version of Pepe LePew bouncing around the cat after the paint stripe went down her back. Quite funny to watch, but that should have been my second cue that something was amiss. In any case, I decided to try to get closer to get a good picture. That was when the youngest fawn I’ve ever seen went scrambling off into the brush. It was so tiny, it was basically hiding in overgrown grass. It still had its cute little spots. It was, however, way faster than I expected and I was unable to get a picture of her/him either. Sad face.
Antelope Island – Frary Peak Trail
This is an exposed ridgeline hike to the highest point on the island overlooking the Great Salt Lake. Unfortunately, there is very little foliage and you are completely exposed for the duration. While we got out fairly early (left the house at 6:45), we didn’t actually get on the trail until 8. Please note, the aforementioned temperatures after 8AM. The first 3 miles held impressive views and went pretty smooth, but then the wheels came off. Billie Goat Jean eyeballed what looked to be the trail for the final quarter mile to the summit and decided to go for it.
A narrow path on the edge of a steep drop-off, some minor rock scrambles, and the surface of the sun literally 12 feet away were not enough to deter us. With an old lady who can’t feel her feet and two fairly out-of-shape chub scouts in tow, we survived to the summit – barely (at twice the distance of the aforementioned 1/4 mile). The trip down was an entirely different affair – the heat of the day was fully upon us and it nearly killed Angela. But again, we survived and Angela had a REALLY good nap on our return.
Okay…NOT the highlight of my SLC experience. First of all, I did not know that Shawn had already decided we (he and I) were not hiking the same trail as the three Billy Goats and thus, did not fill my pack with 3L of water. So, when I decided I was going with the three Billy Goats on the longer trail, I was already at a disadvantage. Second, when we got to the trixty section of the trail and I saw that the peak was only 1/4 mile away (haha), there was no way I was not going the full distance. So we pushed through and it was well worth it. We had a nice little break and snack at the top then started back down the hill. Dun, dun, dun. Where I promptly ran out of water. But, no worries, Shawn always carries extra. Except today. Add 100 degree weather, heat exhaustion and stir. The three Billy Goats thought I was a goner. Good thing I rebounded once I managed to get to the bottom and more water.
Funny thing, antelope island does not actually have antelope on it. It was populated with antelope by the settlers, but it was so hot, they promptly swam back across the inlet to the mainland where there’s shade. True story (he says). There are however, bison and bighorn sheep. Though the bighorn were hiding from us in what little shade they could find in the middle of the day.
This hike was completely different, and could definitely make you understand why this area is so popular. It was a beautiful hike through mixed conifer and aspen forest along a riverbed to arrive at a waterfall and a look out onto the entire Salt Lake valley. Incredible views, and a hike that the destination was definitely worth the effort. For more on this hike, read here.
Golden Spike National Historic Site is about an hour and a half drive north located 32 miles west of Brigham City, Utah, via I15 North and Utah 83 West. It marks the site of what is arguably the most significant technological achievement of the 19th century – the completion of the transcontinental railroad. The site features a great museum, period trains performing reenactments, and scenic drives along some of the original rail route. There is also an impressive earthwork art piece about 20 minutes further northwest that can only be reached by driving through the Historic Site.
Timpanagos Cave National Monument is located about 40 minutes south of Salt Lake via I15 South and Utah 92 East. It is only a few miles out of the city through American Fork Canyon, but forever removed from the influence of urban living. Spectacular canyon views, a clear mountain river, and beautiful trees and flowers, make the drive alone worth the trip. The caves are by guided tour only and provide some excellent examples of classic cave geology including helictites, soda straws and flow stone.
Pleasantly surprised here, not so much by the NPS, since they pretty much do a great job with what they Read more
2 Comments
Shelley Edler
Just wanted to tell you guys how much I am enjoying your blog! Love seeing all of your adventures and laughing at some of your comments!!! Safe travels and thanks for sharing your Journey with us. Love and miss you guys😘
Glad to hear it! We miss you too. As much as we enjoy being out here, we are both looking forward to ‘rediscovering’ New England next year. Stay tuned for Glacier posts!
Just wanted to tell you guys how much I am enjoying your blog! Love seeing all of your adventures and laughing at some of your comments!!! Safe travels and thanks for sharing your Journey with us. Love and miss you guys😘
Glad to hear it! We miss you too. As much as we enjoy being out here, we are both looking forward to ‘rediscovering’ New England next year. Stay tuned for Glacier posts!