SALINAS PUEBLO MISSIONS

Last Updated on September 11, 2023 by

These are actually three sites spread out over about two hours worth of driving (discounting the hour it takes to get to the general area). Like I have said before – these day trips are always worth it, but it takes a commitment to road tripping to experience them.

How much time should I spend?
It will likely take you at least an hour to get to any one of the sites. If you want to visit all three sites, plan on an additional two hours. An hour at each site is probably more than enough time to explore the ruins and visit the museum.

One important note from an experienced traveler – Rule #1 – ALWAYS travel prepared for weather. Despite knowing full well Rule #1 should NEVER be violated, I looked at AccuWeather, saw the prediction of 60 degrees and promptly threw on a pair of shorts and long sleeve shirt. Standard old guy attire, BTW. Upon arriving at the first site with the Subaru indicating a balmy 35 degrees, I knew I was in for a long day. However, I resolved to soldier on for the sake of the children, climate change, the blog, and to affirm at least one member of Gen X does not ascribe victimhood as his most redeeming quality. I survived just fine, frostbite free, and only a little frozen. Angela, however, did not violate Rule #1 and happily meandered about the archaeological gems, fully immersed in the joy of learning. Back to the point.

History

The sites themselves are not that dissimilar and are indicative of a thriving culture of trading posts and, at least temporarily, harmony with the Spanish influence. Although each of the sites contain a ton of historical perspective, the overall length of drive to get to any may be sufficient to convince you to settle on just one. Us, we’re gluttons for punishment. Like I said, a commitment to road tripping.
The park headquarters is located in the very small town of Mountainair, NM. Qurai is to the north, Abo slightly southeast, and Gran Quivira significantly south.

Each of the sites contains the remains of a 17th century Spanish mission collocated with a Native American Pueblo. This period dates to earliest European expansion out of Mexico with settlers attempting to spread Christianity to Tompiro and Tiwa tribes. Construction of the missions provides some indicators of the Spanish Franciscans willingness to integrate local customs with their own as indicated by the kivas within the boundary of the mission. A kiva is a large, circular, underground room used for spiritual ceremonies among the Pueblo.
Fortunately, the remote location, weather conditions, and lack of resettlement have left these sites largely untouched since they were abandoned nearly 300 years ago (approximately 1677).

Gran Quivira

The Gran Quivira site is the largest of the three, but it is also the most remote. At it’s height, this pueblo is believed to have been home to 1,500-3,000 Timpano people. This site was likely a commercial hub, connecting the Plains and Pueblo peoples culturally, socially, and practically. 
Unlike the missions to the north, this mission is constructed of grey San Andres limestone.

The Gran Quivira site has a three quarter mile interpretive loop and a small museum. Out here, in the silence and remoteness, it is not so hard to imagine you are standing in the 15th century.

Abo

The Abo site is just a ten minute drive from Mountainair. The church, dating to 1659, remains largely intact and there are many as yet unexcavated Tompiro pueblo structures along a half mile walking trail.

Here, the Pueblo people likely occupied this land from the early 800’s. Nearly 800 years later, the Spanish arrived and founded the mission of San Gegrorio de Abó in 1622. Thirty years of successful crops and increasing trade doubled the population to nearly 1,400 and brought about the second San Gegrorio de Abó. It is the remains of this church you will see on your visit.

Quarai

A natural spring located here allowed the Pueblo to settle for longer periods of time and become proficient farmers. The masonry pueblos date to about 1300.

The Tiwa occupied the land by themselves until the arrival of the Spanish Franciscans in 1626. They built the Mission Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción de Quarai and co-existed for nearly 50 years until drought forced all people north in 1677.

Pat Garrett, Billy the Kid, and Smokey Bear

If you are making the trip from White Sands, Carlsbad Caverns, or Roswell, NM, you are going to travel through, or, near, Lincoln and Capitan, NM.
Lincoln is notable as the land of Pat Garrett and Billy the Kid. It is here Pat Garrett infamously left in July 1881 in pursuit of the Billy the Kid after he had escaped and killed his two jailers. Garrett caught up and eventually shot Billy through the heart at the Maxwell Ranch near Fort Sumner. When I was a kid, I used to read Pat Garrett stories all the time. I’m pretty sure the folklore never mentioned this was a very unpopular shooting and actually cost Garrett his reelection bid. Meanwhile, years later, Garrett was shot in the back and killed, and his killer was acquitted by reason of self defense. Never ‘meet’ your heroes.

Meanwhile, on a happier note, Capitan is home to Smokey Bear. There is a historical park and a museum gift shop to commemorate the burial place of the real life Smokey. During WW II the US Forestry Service decided to use a bear to spread the fire prevention message. On May 9, 1950, following a devastating fire in Capitan Gap, a badly burned bear cub became the real life symbol of the USFS ad campaign. He was named after New York Assistant Fire Chief, “Smokey” Joe Martin. He spent the next 26 years at the National Zoo in Washington, DC. When he passed away, he was flown home to Capitan for burial and Smokey Bear historical park was established.

I think I might have liked to spend some time exploring these fringe frontier towns, but life is a funny journey, and we never know if we’ll be back.