LITTLE BIGHORN

Last Updated on September 11, 2023 by

National Park out in the middle of nowhere – Cost of gas and $25 NPS entry fee.

Absolutely gorgeous scenery and lots of history – Priceless.

You are a long way from anywhere to get here unless you happen to be traversing somewhere else along I-80. My first thought when we arrived was how often my son would be happily playing with a toy all by himself when my daughter would suddenly discover how absolutely critical it was for her to have that toy. Not because she wanted to play with it, but because she didn’t want my son to have it. Trust me when I say the parallels are astonishing when it comes to US expansionism.

Throw in a spattering of greed on top of that expansionism and you end up with the Battle of Little Bighorn. They found gold in them ‘thar hills and the American government decided the Native Americans had to go.

Last Stand Hill

There are four distinct areas (memorials) at the top of Last Stand Hill. The original cemetery for the fallen American soldiers, the Obelisk in place where the Calvary’s horses were originally buried (the soldiers killed them all at the end in order to provide cover for themselves against the Indians) (writing was definitely on the wall after that), the current Calvary horse burial site, and the Indian Monument. (Don’t yell at me. I know it’s not PC to call it that, but it is what the NPS calls it on their website).

There are also a bunch of graves sprinkled around the surrounding hills. The white marble stones mark the places of fallen American army soldiers and the red marble ones mark the places of the fallen American Indian soldiers.

The Cavalry cemetery up on the hill is not maintained at all and I think it provides the right perspective for the battlefield. (I imagine this viewpoint is shared by the NPS which is why there is a fence around it and it’s not maintained. Also, after much research and archaeology, believed to not actually be the exact site of the fallen soldiers named here).

The Native American monument is really well done and has quotes and perspectives from the Plains Indians history, all in a circular memorial made of etched granite. We had two great Ranger talks, one about the battle, and one about the upper cemetery. Both were really well done and the NPS employees did their best to maintain a factual neutrality.

One thing (among many) that I did not know – this is the only battlefield in the world that attempted to place headstones exactly where the fallen were killed. Although initially it was just the US Cavalry, through extensive interviews, oral history, and written accounts, the NPS has also placed headstones for the fallen Native Americans. (Even though the dead Native Americans were actually carried away immediately after the battle, so it’s more symbolic than literal for them). If you’re a fan of history, it’s a must see spot, but there is very little to actually ‘see’ while you are there. (There’s lots to learn, though.)

There was a great NPS employee who gave an amazing address on the lawn right outside the Visitor Center. We arrived at the park right after he started his presentation (happy coincidence). It was extremely detailed and he was wicked demonstrative as he waved his arms about, pointing to the surrounding hills explaining the movements of both sides of armies. He was a born story teller. (He must be Irish).

Upon arrival, we discovered that there is also an Indian Monument up on the hill. This one is to honor “the Native Americans who struggled to preserve and defend their homeland and traditional way of life. Their heroic sacrifice was never formally recognized…” until 1991 when it was decided they would finally be recognized and the process was set in motion to build a memorial that tells their story. (1991 people – shameful!)

Now, back to the history lesson. The original cemetery on Last Stand Hill is not exactly where the soldiers from the American army actually fell. (A major bone of contention to hard core history buffs since the gravestones continue to reside there.) This is where the bones of the soldiers were found after they had been bloating in the sun for months and then were partially scavenged and carried off. (Nice visual, right?) Exception to the rule – the Custers – because their loved ones actually went back for them and set up memorials to them. In any case, after the NPS took over the park, archaeology ensued and all the soldiers remaining bones ultimately ended up below the Obelisk. As stated above the Calvary horses were originally under the Obelisk and when this part of the hill was redone, the horse bones were moved across the street and now there is only a small white marble stone to mark where their eternal resting place is. On a whole, the entire monument complex is beautifully done and the NPS employees do a great job with their presentations.

History Lessons Learned

1. This National Monument sits within the boundaries of the Crow Indian Reservation (this one should have been obvious, but sometimes she resembles a blond). 2. The Battle of Little Bighorn, previously known as Custer’s Last Stand (name change in 1991), is known as The Battle of Greasy Grass by the plains Indians. It’s named after the “greasy” appearance of the grass on the banks of the Little Bighorn River. 3. There were multiple plains tribes fighting against the American army here, to include several different Sioux tribes, the Northern Cheyenne and the Arapahoe. (There were also Native Americans fighting with the American Army.) 4. Twelve companies of the Seventh Calvary went down here. TWELVE COMPANIES decimated under the command of Custer. 5. While this was “the most decisive Native American victory and the worst US Army defeat in the long plains Indian War”, it would also be the downfall of the plains Indians and their way of life because many white Americans were “outraged” by “the demise of Custer and his men” and much retaliation ensued. 6. Within five years, almost all the Sioux and Cheyenne would be confined to reservations. (We knew this one, but thought it should be stated here to put the whole battle into perspective.) 7. There were several of Custer’s kinsmen fighting (and dying) alongside him at this battle (his brother in law and at least one nephew).

“Forty Years ago I fought Custer till all were dead. I was then the enemy of the Whitemen. Now I am the friend and brother, living in peace together under the flag of our country.”

~Two Moons, Northern Cheyenne

National Cemetery

In stark contrast to the Cavalry Cemetery, there is also a beautifully maintained National Cemetery on the site. Although technically the entire site is part of the national cemetery, the bottom of the hill is maintained in the traditional standards all National Cemeteries adhere to. In fact, the site was originally identified as the Custer National Cemetery. Six years later, it was re-designated Custer National Battlefield, and re-designated again in 1991 to its current designation of Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument.
In National Cemeteries, all ranks are buried as equals with officers and enlisted buried side by side.