GOLDEN SPIKE

Last Updated on September 12, 2023 by

Pleasantly surprised here, not so much by the NPS, since they pretty much do a great job with what they have to work with everywhere we go, but more by the scope and scale of the actual railroad undertaking. The visitor center has a nice interpretive center with a comically non-pc video (hate it when the facts get in the way of the thought police), and there were two period replica steam engines that recreate the two train companies (Union Pacific and Central Pacific). If you have children, or remain young at heart, the stop will have been worth it for the reenactment of the two trains coming together for the Last Spike reenactment.

If you have some more time, I would highly recommend taking either the east or west auto routes. The east route is a short two miles, but really lets you get the feel for how the railroads bent the terrain to their will with some dramatic cuts, fills, and culverts. The west route is slightly longer at 7 miles and has the “10 Miles of Track, Laid in one Day” sign where the Central Pacific Railroad built 10 miles and 56 feet of track on April 28th, 1869. The west route was visually less interesting to me, but the sign is a necessary bit of kitsch to observe.

Finally, if you want to make a solid half day of it, take the drive to Spiral Jetty about 40 minutes south, but only accessible through the park.

Visitor Center and Last Spike location

Golden Spike represents the culmination of efforts by the Union Pacific and Central Pacific Railroads to complete the first transcontinental railroad. A ceremonial golden spike was driven into the rail line at this spot on May 10, 1869. The final tap in was provided by Leland Stanford, founder of the University and a partner in the California Pacific Railroad. Interestingly, the original spike is now located in Palo Alto at the Stanford University art museum. David Hewes, Leland Stanford’s brother-in-law generously had the spike commissioned for Last Spike ceremony and the apparently graciously took it right back. Hewes donated it to the University in 1892.

As with any great American endeavor regarding the expansion of the West, separating fact from fiction is no easy task. In this case, fiction begins literally at the conclusion of the event. Newspapers and railroad officials alike reported the Last Spike as occurring at Promontory Point, a location some 35 miles south. Fortunately for the two railroad companies, actual surveyors and engineers were in charge of laying the lines and not their PR teams.

Nostalgia would also dictate this event marked the beginning of the golden years of railroad expedition, but in fact, steam travel for the transportation of goods was still more efficient and profitable than the rail line during this period. However, what is undeniable and cannot be understated, is the vision and strength of will to complete a logistic enterprise of this magnitude. Perhaps this, more than the reality of what the railroad actually meant, is the bigger takeaway from this site. When you are out here, miles away from any major urban area, take a moment to simply reflect on how incredibly difficult, and the obstacles overcome, it must have been make this happen. Of course, the cynic in me recognizes not insignificant among those obstacles were the near eradication of American buffalo, the displacement or genocide of the Native Americans of the Great Plains, and the massive exploitation of Irish and Chinese immigrant labor. But let’s acknowledge the negative while focusing on the positive, shall we?

Auto Tours

The most interesting part of the park for me was the drive along the original grade. Even in a car, the grade is narrow and steep and it is impossible to think how difficult it must have been for the laborers out here in the middle of the desert trying to build a railroad literally by hand. Just one more reminder of how little perspective we have when most of us think of doing ‘hard’ work. Also along the driving route is Chinese Arch. Originally named Chinaman’s Arch, it is a natural formation honoring the more than 10,000 Chinese laborers brought in to accomplish Central Pacific’s portion of the railroad.

Spiral Jetty

There is also an earthwork formation about 30 minutes away by dirt road called the Spiral Jetty that isn’t part of the NPS system, but you have to drive through it to get there. It’s pretty random, and I have no idea why this dude chose this desolate area to create his art, but there you have it. Worth the trip because you are already out there and you can walk out to the Great Salt Lake to get a different perspective. The salt piles up so thick along the tide lines that it looks like snow. One minor inconvenience is the presence of brine flies right at the waters edge. The local I was talking to told me they turn into brine shrimp, but apparently they actually just submerge to lay eggs. Saved by Google once again.

Always enjoy a national park. Even though most are out in the middle of nowhere. Less people … YEAH! It was very informative and the trains are beautiful with the NPS employees dressed up like old timers. The spiral jetty is even further into the middle of nowhere. Think dirt roads and you better have accurate directions because you’re not getting GPS.